Friday, February 12, 2016

Completed Face Frame Door

 Making the door for the top of my cabinet was an evolving design. After the frame was done I changed my mind on what sort of inset panel would use. So in the end I needed 1/4 round trim to finish things off.


  Commonly I make small sections of trim and I have developed what I think is a good method:

1st-cut the profile using your router table on a piece of material that is wide enough to rip many pieces of trim from it.

2nd- I then sand the profile a bit and rip it off on the table saw using a thin strip jig,(mine isn't this fancy).

3rd-return to step one and repeat. 

 I do this to keep my fingers away from the blade and it lets you rip off very thin and consistent strips of wood.

 After the trim was installed I made two panels to fit in to the door. I decided to be non-traditional about my panels. To keep the weight low instead of wood I used card board for the panel. For a whimsical touch and as homage to coffee I covered the cardboard with coffee bean bags.


 This way the door is light and by opening upward it closes and stays closed by gravity.


I also decided to divide the doors up this way to keep the doors to the lower section from be excessively long and heavy. After all the doors are to keep out dust not for security.

this is the next mess.
  As everyone knows it is easy to do good work in an organised space. This corner needs attention next.







  

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

From Rough Lumber To Face frame with KREG

 Legend has it that the KREG pocket hole jig was created when Craig Somerville  was renovating his kitchen and wanted an accurate and easy way to make face frames.

 It is very easy to make perfect face frames with a KREG jig, in fact it is almost fool proof, if you follow the system and make careful preparations. 



  This the completed face frame for the upper section of my new tool cupboard.  The corners are square and strong and it was easy to build with a table saw and a Kreg Jig.

  My frame began as an 8/4 by six inch piece of rough poplar. First I jointed one face and one edge. Then I ripped off three strips that were a fat 3/4 by 2 by 60 inches.

  After I cut off the three pieces I ran them through my planner so they would be smooth and exactly the same thickness.  Then I stood the pieces on edge and put them through the planner so they would be exactly the same width. 

  The next step is to cut the pieces to length. After careful measurement I cut one edge off each board at my mitre saw and checked it for square. I had all ready checked the sides of the boards to see that they were exactly square.

 When you are going to make face frames check the set up of your machines. Make sure the table saw is 90 degrees and make sure your jointer is exactly 90 degrees too.  When you cut the end off your board you now have a perfect end from which to measure. 


  I measured the length for my long sides and cut both pieces at once, that way I wouldn't be out even the width of a pencil line. I did the same thing with the three short pieces too. Now the butt joints will fit perfectly because all the surfaces are 90 degrees and the wood is identical lengths.

  

  I worked for KREG in Canada for five years. I drilled thousands of holes and made tonnes of butt joints in demonstrations. I still mark where every pocket hole is going to be drilled. I examine the wood, decide which face in out and which face is hidden and then I mark every pocket hole that will be drilled.  Marking the wood reduces the chance of getting the pieces flipped over and the piece being ruined.

  

  I screwed my jig to a board so that I can clamp it to my bench when in use. You can see I have my shop-vac connected to the jig too. The vacuum clears away the wood chips and makes drilling the hole easier and keeps the bit cooler.  When I have many holes to drill or I want them to be perfect I use a corded drill because the faster drilling speed means smoother holes.

  If your material is not accurately prepared your face frame will not turn out well. The pocket hole screws will pull your joint together tight, and crooked, if your cuts are off by even a little bit.


 I am working on the sections that will be inserted in the frame, actually part of it is drying as I type. You'll see it at the end of the week.

cheers ianw