For example I am making a repair to a glass goblet. At some point in this glass objects life it got chipped, small but sharp edged. Repairing it is not a typical wood shop job. I turned to my collection of glues and mixed up a tiny dab of two part epoxy and filled in the chipped spot. The repair is not invisible but the goblet can now be discounted and some one will buy it as an object d' art rather than a regularly used wine glass.
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| two part glue at work |
While talking about glue, here is a video of a band saw box being glued together using adhesive and hardener. This is the more typical wood shop application.
Another repair pending is trying to remove this stain, or repaint the piece to try and hide the it.
This piece is painted with acrylic paint and I have already tried to remove the stain but I am pretty sure it is brown paint that was left to dry by accident. I am going to have to over paint this blotch to hide it. Luckily! I have a pretty good selection of acrylic paint kicking around. Again a repair shop needs various types of paint that a serious wood shop could live without. (happily)
I also have a typical repair on my wood bench. It is a carved box from Indonesia, and the lid doesn't close properly. The solution is some planing and sanding. Once sanded I repair the finish using orange shellac. I am very fond of shellac, but I wonder how many wood workers still use shellac as a sealer or finish? The new water based sealers seem to be pretty good, now.
The repairs that I have done for both 10,000 Villages and other customers draw heavily on a small selection of tools. Knives and scrappers, glues and clamps, drill press, hand drills and bits and sometimes fine blades saws. Seldom do I need a table saw, router, jointer or planer, power doesn't seem to be as important in repair work as patience. It has been a long evolution from being a power tool, belt sander kind of guy to where I am now.
Just proves...you can teach a old dog new tricks.
cheers, ianw
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