Table: continued

  When you read about a project like this it becomes obvious that I am a retired guy that mostly plays in his workshop.  The internet is filled with video blogs and YouTube sites that feature a project a week, often complete with bag lots of pictures and video footage.  I have made a couple of videos over the years I've done this blog but generally shy away from productions that large.  

  One of the great luxuries of being retired is that you can interrupt any project to make something with your grandchildren or try something silly in the shop.  Or....not work in the shop at all.  Today I helped in the Cafe at our seniors centre and spent the afternoon playing with our centre's recorder group. It was only this evening that I got around to doing some more work on Mary's sofa table.

  This as been an interesting project all along the way.  This table is actually a bit large for a 'sofa table' but it is custom designed to fit a specific space.  I have worked from a general drawing but adjusted the styling as I went along, only limited by the outer dimensions.  

  My building process was 
a: make the top- I had to be a specific size.

b: make and assemble the long side legs, - again a specific height.

c: fiddle with the spacing under the top for the legs and then make the narrow end spacers, - I had some stylistic lea way.

d: glue the pocket hole constructed long side legs together with the narrow end spacers.

  The top is not attached in this photo but the legs are glued and drying.  I have to fit two more spacers on each end upon which a lower and middle shelf will sit.

  If you look closely you can see the pocket holes on the end.  In this situation pocket holes serve perfectly, the holes are hidden, there are no alignment challenges during assembly and the joint is strong.

  To hold the top in place I will use pocket holes and screws. The trick to attaching the top is to screw all the pocket hole screws tight first then....back each screw off one quarter turn.  That holds the top firmly but allows for a bit of wiggle room.  I had used that trick several times and not had any troubles with wood expansion.

  It is a bit tough to see here but that is a piece of 1/4 plywood that I used as a spacer for the set back on the side rails.  I find it is easier to use a spacer that to try and measure and fit a joint to a line.  On the Kreg Klamp Table I put the spacer underneath the rail and then drove the pocket hole screws as usual. Once the joint is screwed solid I remove the spacer, so I get even set backs all around.

  On December 12 2011 I wrote a blog about finishing a wooden clock kit.  For about a year the clock didn't work.  I fiddled with it a bit but didn't really give it serious attention. On the weekend I got focused and serious about getting Eva's clock going again.  Our summer's are quite humid and so I didn't expect the clock to work then but it is cooler and drier now and so if the clock doesn't work it is my fault.  I fussed and fiddled for over an hour before everything was re-aligned and working happily and now....the clock is running well and fairly accurately.  Now I feel silly for not bothering about it sooner.

  Wood is wonderful stuff, it can be made into a clock, or a table or something as simple as a cutting board.  Now that the weather is cooler it is a good time to make something. (or to fix something, long over due)

cheers, ianw